December 27, 2013 2:16 AM PST
What a pain in the butt!!! I noticed a couple weeks ago my brake light was slow going off when I used my front brake, about 15sec after releasing the brake. Now I have both Harley service manual and Chilton manual, both the ONLY mention of front brake light switch is in the elec diagram! So I start at the front brake I'm pulling everything loose tracing out wires in the harness Disconnecting plugs and keep trying. It just won't go off. I'm thinking there must be a short in the wire since I have the plug to the front and rear switches disconnected. Finally get to the plug at the tail light, I clip the wires from the front and rear brake light switches plug it in and it's still on! No brake light power going to it. Turns out the bulb socket was corroded and shorting between both elements in my 1157 bulb. Got that fixed hook it all back up and the brake light is stuck on again WTH. Turns out ALSO the front master cylinder return spring is worn and isn't strong enough to return the lever fully and engage the switch off even though there is no problem with the brakes themselves.. 2 totally different problems on extreme ends of each other causing the same problem. Hate it when that happens
December 27, 2013 2:50 AM PST
Yeah it sucks when you have a couple problems causing the same thing. Just when you get all excited that you found the problem, take a short break and then fix the issue, you realize the problem is still there.
Good work in tracking it down though!
December 27, 2013 7:24 AM PST
everything is back together working good. I'll prob order a new tail light and master cylinder kit to be on the safe side. charging my batt right now didn't try to crank it, just after all the on and off of the lights, give it a slow charge.
December 27, 2013 7:29 PM PST
I bought the Bright Ass Light, tail light, and it is great. LED which is wicked bright and 21 different stop signals. Amazingly I can see it, during the day, in the grill of a car 10+ Ft behind me.
A buddy went to small bullet Turn, running, brake lights in the back and I was behind him one day and did not even notice he had hit his brakes. I told him, and he said yea but it looks cool, sleek and uncluttered.
Until a car runs his ass over cause they do not notice the small bullet brake lights.
December 27, 2013 9:48 PM PST
I had the exact same trouble on Rex (my 04 King). Melted and corroded bulb socket, I did the same as Silver Sportster and put a flashing BAL. I have had many people comment on the effectiveness of the flashing. My front switch was sluggish so I also replaced that. I found that the correct setting of the switch and lever position took a little practice to get it right.
December 28, 2013 1:44 AM PST
Thanks I will look into flashing led tail light. I still use hand signals but you can't see them at night and I don't think most people even know what the stop hand signal looks like. Where did yall get them from? I use J&P alot
December 28, 2013 2:09 AM PST
What lights did yall use?
December 29, 2013 9:12 AM PST
Yea got mine at HD dealer also... Same price, basically, as off line... 1 year and still working great....
September 24, 2014 9:03 AM PDT
ok guys I have a problem on candy her turn signals are not working and the running lights not working no mods and when I turn the sw on it blows the aux fuse can a bad bulb cause this
September 24, 2014 9:32 AM PDT
Probably not a bulb but it 'could' be. It is rare for bulbs to short (which is what blows fuses), they usually open (which causes only that bulb not to work). My guess is there is a short in the wiring. You will have to trace it to find the spot where something is sending all the voltage (thus current) to ground, blowing the fuse. I recommend to everyone that is going to do ANY electrical work that they get a good schematic for their particular bike.
Good luck!
September 24, 2014 11:51 AM PDT
I agree with Mike (as normal)... bulbs don't usually cause a fuse to blow. If I was trouble shooting it the first thing I would do is disconnect all if the inline connectors for anything tied to that fuse. If you can switch the ignition on without the fuse blowing, start plugging them back in one at a time until you find the culprit. Once you know which component it is you should be able to find the problem.
Like Mike said, it would be best to have a wiring diagram for the bike.
September 25, 2014 3:32 AM PDT
Ok update I got my book out started tracing wire took tail light off all turn signals both sw housings horn head light no bare wires raised tank check wiring harness after two hours and a few sips lol I found it rear break light sw where the wires connect was small piece of road debris of the aluminium type about 2 inch Jamed between the connectors pulled it out problem solved
September 29, 2014 3:49 AM PDT
You're not the first one to go for the complicated to find it was the most simple resolution. But I still never learn :-)
January 11, 2015 4:59 AM PST
Johnny. First thing I would do is pull all the bulbs and check the sockets for corrosion that might be shorting it out.
After that it will be a matter of narrowing down. Follow the wires for each of the lights to the first harness connector. Unplug them all and if the fuse doesn't blow, plug them in one at a time.
January 13, 2015 11:35 AM PST
once again. Yall ever own an ironhead? lol
Didnt check the obvious first lesson learned
